Available slots for supermarket deliveries may be rarer than hens’ teeth, but an army of small firms are finding new ways to feed and water the nation – and keep themselves in business in the process.
Some entrepreneurs who have never dabbled in food and drink before are now doing so.
The London-based company I Hate Ironing, a dry-cleaning delivery service, which has drawn on its fleet of 60 vans to offer “essentials” boxes, including fruit and vegetables, and a lucky dip of staples such as eggs, bread and milk.
Owing to reduced demand for laundry from busy office workers only 15 of its drivers were on the road, but another nine are now working again, dropping off groceries instead.
Small business owners can seek safety in numbers, thanks to resources that pool information about local suppliers that may be off the beaten track. YourLocalDelivered is one such website, listing grocers, restaurants and pubs that allow home orders, in every part of the country.
In South Wales, Cardiff Delivers offers a lengthy and growing list of the city’s options, while a Liverpool chef, Dave Critchley, has launched a food delivery service called LIDS to help keep household shelves stocked.
Beer Is Here, set up by a coalition of industry firms, connects beer lovers with a local brewery, helping the industry survive the loss of its custom from pubs, restaurants and bars.
John Willetts, a director of Simply Hops, said the scheme was appealing to the nation’s “beer patriotism” to help small brewers survive. Real ale enthusiasts’ group CAMRA has set up a similar scheme called Pulling Together.
One brewer, Reece Hugill, of the Hartlepool-based brewery Donzoko, has brought together artisanal producers of charcuterie, coffee and tea, offering nationwide delivery under the banner Donzoko & Friends.
This “adapt to survive” mentality has taken hold across all types of business, produce and in every part of the country.
Hundreds of restaurants have introduced or increased delivery services. One restaurateur, Will Lander, says the Quality Chop House, one of four in his Woodhead restaurant group, has had to rethink how its chefs work.
“Rental is expensive, so kitchens are usually pretty small. You might have six chefs within two metres of each other, which works fine in a pre-Covid world but you can’t do that now.”
The restaurant’s chefs have moved into the kitchen of its neighbouring shop, and wine stock that was destined for tables has been rerouted to a delivery service.
“If we can do all of that, it’ll give us the best chance of emerging as strong as possible,” he said. “And people seem to be drinking a lot of wine.”
Suppliers are reinventing themselves too. Owen Taylor & Sons, an East Midlands catering butcher, is offering retail delivery and pop-up shops, including at NHS sites.
And a Hertfordshire seafood firm, Marrfish, which has lost wholesale custom, is delivering direct to homes.
Another business, Butlers Farmhouse Cheeses, based in Lancashire, has become Butlers Larder, bringing together local producers of a much larger range of foods in the north-west.
Cheese addicts elsewhere in the country should look to the Cheese Tasting Company for a list of cheesemongers who will come to the door.
Ned Palmer, who runs the site, literally wrote a book on cheese in a pandemic. His work, A Cheesemonger’s History of the British Isles, contains a chapter on how the industry fared during the Black Death.