Medieval monks’ cheese and pre-second world war wensleydales should take the place of brie and Gorgonzola on our Christmas dining tables this year, according to English Heritage.
The charity is encouraging people to turn to traditional cheeses with a historical flavour to beat predicted holiday season shortages at supermarkets as well as to support local cheesemakers.
UK shoppers spent just under £3.5bn on cheese over the past year but the country’s supply chain meltdown, coupled with the full impact of Brexit on festive demands, has led to retailer warnings to expect gaps on supermarket shelves in the run-up to Christmas. As a result, cheeses originating outside the UK such as camembert and manchego may be in short supply.
Cheese-lovers could instead consider opting for a slice of rollright, a washed-rind cheese that was produced by monks at medieval monasteries in the 14th century. A soft, buttery cheese wrapped in a band of spruce bark, washed-rinds likely disappeared from the English cheeseboard after the dissolution of the monasteries by Henry VIII between 1536 and 1540.
Stretching further back, the Spenwood can be traced back to Roman legionaries who, as part of their daily ration, received an ounce of the hard sheep’s milk cheese. Evidence of cheese making has been discovered during excavations at both Corbridge Roman Town on Hadrian’s Wall in Northumberland and Wroxeter Roman City in Shropshire.
As a result of the government’s controls on cheesemaking during the second world war, wensleydale – once considered a gourmet cheese – became hard and lost some of its flavour to become easily portionable for rationing and more affordable for the wartime economy. The prewar recipe ranges from lactic and yoghurty through to mellow and buttery with a delicate hint of mushroom.
Dr Michael Carter, an English Heritage historian and turophile, said a historical cheeseboard would inspire people to continue ancient traditions and keep history alive.
“Throughout the ages it’s clear that cheese has been a popular and coveted commodity, usually enjoyed at times of feasting and celebration,” he said.
“From our neolithic predecessors feasting at winter solstice at Stonehenge to the medieval faithful making offerings of cheese to an esteemed saint, England was and still is a nation of cheese lovers.”
