Back in the early 90s, when I began writing about wine, almost every high street had a wine shop. Augustus Barnett, Victoria Wine, Peter Dominic, Threshers, Wine Rack ... one by one they disappeared, edged out by the more convenient, if not congenial supermarkets. Now, in what looks like the final death knell of the high-street chain, Oddbins is in administration (although my local branch is still trading) and Majestic is being rebranded as Naked Wines.
Does it matter? Well, yes, I think it does. Although both chains are a shadow of their former selves, they were – and still are, for the moment – shops you can wander into and buy an interesting bottle. Oddbins had got a bit spendy, maybe a bit niche. Though I liked the niche they occupied, there simply didn’t seem to be enough people in there any time I passed.
Majestic moved – not altogether successfully – into own-label products and a furious flurry of shouty promotions, with every wine being on discount and confusing WIGIG (When It’s Gone It’s Gone) offers that always seemed to be over a couple of weeks after you’d tasted them. Like at Naked Wines, it makes no sense to buy at full price, but the “mix six” discounts are never quite as good as they look.
Happily, all is not doom and gloom (on the wine front, if not the political landscape). There is, thank goodness, still the wonderful Wine Society, which I ceaselessly urge friends to join for prices that are often as cheap as the supermarkets, this week’s recommendation being a case in point.
The discounters, too, offer seriously good value at the cheaper end. Lidl has, in my opinion, the more interesting options with its bi-monthly Wine Tour (I’d also go for the colourful, £5.99 La Bien Pinta Rueda, a crisp, 12.5% sauvignon blanc-style white from the current promotion), while Aldi has the better core range, mainly from its rather tweely named Exquisite Collection (the bright, limey, 11.5% Clare Valley Riesling, at £6.99, is a regular favourite.)
And if you seriously want to increase your wine knowledge, you should buy, at least occasionally, from independent wine merchants, which, while more expensive, offer wines that really reward you for digging deep. You didn’t know the Rhône produced characterful whites as well as reds? Or that young rioja can be as delicious as an aged gran reserva? You do now, so no excuse! You could even make a start this Easter weekend.
Four good wine buys for Easter – and beyond
Malaga Virgen Moscatel
£6.99 (50cl) Lidl, 15%.
With its delicious, caramelised sugar notes, this is like crema catalana in a glass. Great with anything chocolatey (including your kids’ eggs, obvs).
Rioja Alavesa Sierra de Tolono 2017
£15.50 (or £13.95 a bottle if you buy a case) Lea & Sandeman, 13.5%.
Fresh, young rioja from high-altitude vineyards from rioja specialist Tim Atkin’s young winemaker of the year, Sandra Bravo.
Saint Gayan Côtes du Rhône Villages Sablet 2016
£14.25 Yapp Brothers, 13.5%.
Best known for its reds, the Rhône’s richly textured whites go well with white meat such as chicken or pork.
Sabina Tempranillo 2017
£5.75 The Wine Society, 13.5%.
With bargains as good as like this, who needs discounters? A lipsmacking Spanish red for everyday drinking.
• For more by Fiona Beckett, go to matchingfoodandwine.com
